Warm, soft and puffy with a golden and crisp exterior, the Navajo fry bread recipe is a beloved treat with a complex history.

WHITE CENTER, Wash — They may be puffy and light but fry bread actually has a dark history dating back to when Native Americans were put on reservations and given government rations for food.

At Hooker’s, visitors at the open-air picnic tables swap stories as they bite into perfectly crisp fry bread tacos, a dish rooted in both resilience and survival, two words that come up again ...