I can just make out its lotus-bud ... exploring Siem Reap, which feels more like a town, set along the unmoving, mirror glass river and strung with monasteries and street food hawkers.

Bigger than Greater Glasgow and decked in detailed bas-reliefs, the Unesco-venerated temples of Angkor in Cambodia ... in Siem Reap, as we walk in the pre-dawn darkness towards the moated, ...